48 Hours in Port Elliot: Your mini winter getaway from Adelaide

Stay at the historic YHA Port Elliot Beach House and you've got a base with 270-degree ocean views, Southern Right Whales passing by in the bay, and three days to completely unwind. Book an entire apartment with a private balcony overlooking the water, grab a four-bed co-living room for the group, or book out an entire room and treat the place like your own boutique beach house for the weekend.

The guest lounge looks straight out to sea with a cosy fireplace, plus there’s a massive dining and shared space made for unwinding and doing absolutely nothing. With wild coastline, scenic walking trails, cosy pubs and cafes all at your fingertips, your winter reset is ready and waiting. 

Day 1 (Friday) - Get out of Adelaide

The vibe: You low key need a break and we get it. Leave the city behind for a few nights and get ready to fully relax. Port Elliot embraces cosy coastal stays, wide open roads and you’ll have the whole town to yourself (except for the Southern Right Whales). Make Port Elliot your drama-free answer to switching off the right way this winter.

Afternoon & evening

Clock off early and get away for a reset for the soul. Go the stress free way and jump on a LinkSA bus (route 1251, departing 12pm or 3pm) from Adelaide's Central Bus Station, running straight to Port Elliot. You’ll be dropped off around two hours later at The Strand, the town’s main strip, which is a short walk to YHA Port Elliot.  

If driving, take the A13 freeway through McLaren Vale, one of Australia’s great wine regions known for its Shiraz and Grenache. While lesser known than the Barossa Valley, it’s worth the stop. Cellar doors like the quirky d'Arenberg, or the award-winning Maxwell Wines, are among the best you’ll find in South Australia. Stop by one of these for a small tasting, pick up a bottle of your favourite wine (plus some takeaway), and you'll still make Port Elliot by sunset.  

Once you've checked into YHA Port Elliot and dropped your bags, take some time to relax at the property. There’s a massive dining room, games room and lounge, complete with a crackling wood fire to put you straight into winter holiday mode.

Best bites:

• Flying Fish Cafe overlooks Horseshoe Bay and is open Fridays and Saturdays for dinner. Mains start from $26, and they’re known for their fresh seafood menu. During the day, their kiosk is perfect for fish and chips on the beach.
• For a special occasion or a splurge, check out Salt at the Elliot for tapas, Mediterranean-inspired mains and a wine bar.

Best nights:

• Close to YHA Port Elliot, the Royal Family Hotel has a classic country pub feel with sweeping verandahs and a massive beer garden. Check ahead for live music nights.
• Prefer a night in? Pick up a wood-fired pizza from Crisp (from $26).

Can't miss:

Winter is the perfect time to slow down, stay in, and cosy up on the lounge by the fireplace. You might also decide to play some board games with some fellow travellers at the property. You’ll need to rest up before a full day of adventures tomorrow.

Day 2 (Saturday) - Pick a direction

The vibe: Choose your own adventure. Head east for Victor Harbor and the Southern Right Whale nursery grounds. Cycle west along the Encounter Bikeway towards Goolwa, or do a half or full day trip somewhere in the region. Read on for some highlights. 

Morning

Make breakfast in the shared kitchen, take it slow and enjoy the lounge as you plan your day. When heading out to explore Port Elliot, remember to grab a jacket and beanie if it’s cold, you’ll need them if you’re walking around coastal trails like Horseshoe Bay. 

Best bites:

• Some of Port Elliot’s most popular breakfast spots are open along The Strand. Check out Cockles Cafe, Jelly the General Store, (local and organic ingredients) and Beaches Cafe (with a vegan menu too). All have tasty breakfast and lunch options. 

Best sites:

Port Elliot

• The Port Elliot Ratalang Ngarrindjeri tour (from $100) runs year-round and explores the indigenous history of the region, including Dreamtime stories and bush tucker.

Victor Harbour

• The Victor Harbor Farmers Market runs every Saturday from 8am to 12:30pm in Grosvenor Gardens, about 10 minutes away by car. 

Afternoon

Whether you’re in a hiking mood, want to catch some whales or explore more of the Fleurieu coastline, there’s plenty to see and do. If the weather is not ideal, stay in for another round of board games, or cosy up with a good book by the fire. There’s plenty of time to match your vibe.

Best sights:

Port Elliot

• Whale watching is the whole reason to be on the Fleurieu peninsula during winter. Southern Right Whales are seen here until the end of October, peaking at the end of July and into August. 
• If you’re brave, hire a surfboard and book a beginner lesson through YHA reception.
• Kayak toward the Coorong National Park on a guided tour (from $145). 
• Hire a bike from YHA and ride the Encounter Bikeway.

Victor Harbour

• Book a wildlife and whale discovery tour ($85) at the front desk (ask for Alia, the resident marine biologist. 
• You can pick up a whale education pack from the Victor Harbor Whale Centre, or grab binoculars from reception and watch from the shore.
• For a half-day trek, head to Granite Island, near Victor Harbor. Walk across the causeway and you’ll find rugged cliffs, huge granite boulders and sweeping views back across Encounter Bay. Look for little penguins nesting in burrows along the trail. The penguins head out to sea at dawn and come home every single night at dusk. Remember to not touch the wildlife, and keep your distance.
• There are several guided tours around Granite Island too. Big Duck Boat Tours depart from the Causeway heads to Seal Island (from $55), where fur seals, sea lions and seabirds gather on the rocks. Also watch out for pods of dolphins.
• For a scenic rail ride along the coast, the Cockle Steam Train ($20 return) runs between Goolwa and Victor Harbor (Port Elliot is the stop in the middle). You don’t need to pre-book to ride the heritage locomotive.

Best bites:

Port Elliot

• DeGroot Coffee Co at Factory 9 has specialty coffee until 2pm every day. 
• The Chicken Run has barbecued chicken, burgers and fish and chips. 
• If visiting during August, the Fleurieu Food Festival has more than 50 events across the Peninsula with events at farms, restaurants, wineries and breweries.

Victor Harbour

• The Larder Kitchen has a modern Aussie menu, plus great coffee, cocktails and dessert complete with an ocean view.
• Head to The Original Fish Shop for takeaway fish and chips you can eat on the beach.
• Stock up on your produce from the Friendly Grocer at the top of The Strand and use the YHA's kitchen. Victor Harbor also has Aldi, Woolworths and Coles supermarkets.

Best nights:

• Walk down to Horseshoe Bay for an evening beach stroll, with sunset during winter usually just after 5pm. The Harbormaster Trail loops around the headland in around 30 minutes
• Hotel Elliot (1 minute from YHA Port Elliot) has shared plates, pub classics and a cosy beer garden ideal for groups. There’s regular live music and sport on the TV screens if you’re a football lover.

Can't miss:

• The Winter Whale Fest takes over Victor Harbor all of June with more than 25 events built around whale season, from guided tours with marine biologists to a lantern parade and live music. Many events are also free, including the Welcoming of the Whales and Smoking Ceremony on June 6.

Day 3 (Sunday) - Keep calm before your slow exit

The vibe: Sunday morning in Port Elliot is joining the bakery queue then having a last walk in the sunshine with a coffee and pastry. The trick here? Make sure nothing is done in a hurry.

Morning

Treat yourself to a massive sleep in. After you check out, leave your bags at reception free of charge and take your time before heading back to Adelaide. 

Best bites:

• Port Elliot Bakery is the most popular bakery on the Fleurieu, and there’s one main reason why. Every month, they rotate a donut of the month, which as the name suggests, changes every month. Go early or risk disappointment. Past flavours include a Vovo with raspberry white chocolate cheesecake and Chocolate Biscoff. Yummm!

Best sites:

Port Elliot

• Spend the morning wandering through the town’s little arts and craft shops, historic homes, and charming shopfronts at your own pace.
• Walk the Harbormaster Trail one final time or head to The Bluff which is 800m one way with open ocean views overlooking Encounter Bay.

Victor Harbor

• For a longer hike, consider the jaw-dropping 11km track along the Waitpinga Cliffs.
• If it's the 2nd or 4th Sunday of the month, the Victor Harbor Beachside Markets run from 9am to 3pm on The Esplanade, which is worth a walk through on your way out. 
• If you have a car, Ingalalla Falls in the Second Valley Forest is a short drive from Port Elliot, and makes for a good morning walk with photo ops. 

Afternoon

Pick up your bags from the YHA, head to the bus stop on Port Elliot Rd at the top of The Strand and catch the LinkSA bus back to Adelaide. If driving, load up in the car and head home via a scenic coastal route through Sellicks and Aldinga Beach. There’s stops to take in the contrast of red rolling hills against the turquoise ocean

Can’t miss:

Whether you’re eating fish and chips from a picnic rug on the grassy lookout over Horseshoe Bay or sitting closer to the water on the sand, make sure you experience a Port Elliot sunset.

*prices can vary based on season and event / holiday periods

Words: Troy Nankervis