How to enjoy Melbourne like a local
Once deemed a bit of a cultural wasteland, suburban areas are enjoying a renaissance, with travellers swapping the city lights for the slow burn of the sprawl. Whether it’s the desire to get to know the local way of life or just a yearning for authenticity, instead of being ‘stuck in’ the ‘burbs, travellers are now getting stuck into the ‘burbs. Each of Melbourne’s inner suburbs has a distinct identity worth getting to know. Luckily, the city’s trams, trains and bike share options are on the ready to get you there, whichever way the wind blows.
North: Fitzroy, Collingwood, Clifton Hill, Northcote, Carlton, Brunswick
Image: Visit Victoria
Independent book shops, record stores, vintage shopping and live music proliferate in these parts, as do bike lanes, green space and vegan restaurants. You won’t find many air-conditioned malls here, with strip shopping and markets the preferred form of retail. Rose Street Artists’ Market in Fitzroy is a weekend institution for locals and visitors alike, and a top place to score an oh-so-Melbourne keepsake or gift.
Music of all varieties is a big part of local life in these parts, with live music institution The Tote delivering rock, punk and metal, while Fitzroy’s Night Cat is the domain of Latin beats and smooth, salsa moves. Back street ‘footy pubs’ typically serve up schnitzels and brews with a side of folk or country. In winter, the old fireplaces crackle, but in summer the beer gardens overflow with cider and sunshine. Over in Carlton, Lygon Street may be considered ground zero for Italian dining, yet many of the best food and wine finds are in surrounding streets with Rathdowne Village’s low-key, Gerald’s Bar delivering casual, Euro-style food, wine and beer. This is one area where straying from the main street pays dividends.
West: Yarraville, Seddon, Williamstown, Footscray
Image: Visit Victoria
An area with working class roots that’s slowly being gentrified, Melbourne’s west is often overlooked by visitors despite its wealth of diversity. The hub of Yarraville is a compact collection of shops clinging to the Art Deco glory of the Sun Theatre, an old-school movie house known for its comfy couch seating and artisan choc-top selection. Wine bars, cafés and speciality shops are neatly dissected by a train line that cuts straight through the village.
Footscray’s solid food scene has earned it some well-deserved street cred. A haven of cheap eats, Footscray’s migrant population means you’ll find everything from Filipino comfort food to Ethiopian fare and Korean barbecue. From fine dining to budget-friendly banquets, Footscray is the real deal - plastic tablecloths and all.
At the end of the rail line, you’ll find the port of Williamstown. This is where shipping containers and cargo ships mix with luxury yachts and fish and chip shops. A walk or bike ride along the waterfront reveals maritime history, black swans, old mariner’s cottages, and locals going for their daily jog. Pro tip: skip the train and take the ferry to Williamstown for a dose of fresh salt air.
South: Albert Park, South Yarra, St Kilda, Prahran, Armadale
Image: Visit Victoria
Heading south of the city, Albert Park, Elwood and Armadale boast an air of refinement and elegance, with stately Art Deco apartment blocks, boutiques, antiques shops and grand manors with rose gardens adding a touch of class.
Over in Toorak, shops selling luxury goods and imported wines and cheeses at ‘you wish’ prices occupy the main street, while the nearby suburbs of South Yarra and Prahran offer chain stores and high street fashion for the rest of us. Prahran’s Chapel Street is where you’ll find locals indulging in retail therapy, manicures, long lunches, and afternoon champagne sessions.
Waterfront St Kilda is a favourite with all kinds of travellers. The grinning face of Luna Park, the Art Deco glory of the Palais Theatre, towering palm trees, and burnt orange sunsets combine to create a photographer’s dream. The revamped Hotel Esplanade (or the ‘Espy’) has killer cocktails and views to boot. Down the road, Acland Street unites locals and tourists, who all come for cakes, coffee, gelato, juices, smoothies and other extremely important necessities for happiness.
East: East Melbourne, Richmond, Abbotsford
Image: Visit Victoria
The inner east is a bit of a mixed bag. Sports nuts, students, working professionals and families all collide in this pocket within walking distance of the city. Richmond’s main roads have distinct personalities, with people heading to Bridge Road for fashion bargains, Swan Street for food, pubs and gigs, and Victoria Street for a steaming bowl of pho. Over in Abbotsford, the Abbotsford Convent is Australia’s largest arts and cultural precinct. Spend an afternoon here wandering around the 100-plus cafes, studios, restaurants and gallery spaces housed across the history property.
The east also lays claim to the hallowed turf of the MCG. Ruled by the fast-paced, scrappy game of AFL in winter, come summer the ‘G is handed over to cricket, with the first day of the Boxing Day Test seeing crowds swell to more than 80,000. But it’s not all about elite sports in these parts. With barefoot bowling and beer at austerity-approved prices, the Richmond Union Bowling Club welcomes visitors and is a top spot for a lawn bowls showdown in the sun.
Five local experiences to add to your Melbourne agenda
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